Thursday, July 17, 2014

New Look 6977 View A Raglan sleeve top

       After a little searching through my stash, I decided to start my back-to-school mini wardrobe with a top from my stash.  Although I haven't tried this pattern yet, I read lots of reviews on Pattern Review.  Most of them indicate they wished they had chosen a smaller size, or to go by the finished garment size... rather than the measurement guide.  With that in mind, I'm going to cut a size 8 with a bust adjustment, rather than the 10.

     Here's my mock up of the top with the fabric I have:

   Pretty sure there might have been some "shopping juice" involved in this purchase!  However, the colors match the grey and black I have for pants and a skirt... so I'm going for it anyway.  

Step one:  Laying out the pattern and doing a full-bust adjustment.  Piece 1 is the front, which is cut on the fold and does not have a dart.   So, where to start the fba?  I learned something!  It turns out on some patterns, this line is marked on the pattern.

     To find the other line, make a horizontal line 1/2 way between the arm scythe notch and the shoulder seam.  (In this case, there was no shoulder seam due to raglan sleeves.  I went ahead and split the difference between the notch and the top of the front piece.)  You can just see where I made a small mark at the 2 inch mark.  

     I then drew a horizontal line at this mark. Using the fold line to make sure it was square.
Then, I drew another horizontal line at the bust marking.

Next, I drew a vertical (grainline) line from about where my bust point would be to the hem line.  (How did I know??  I measured my bust spread from my center front, and used this to find a close approximation.)

Now I cut, kind of like with a regular FBA, but no tilting.

Notice that the piece with the neckline is still attached at the first horizontal line.  In order to allow for more bust wiggle room, I first scooted the arm scythe piece out 5/8".  I have heard not to adjust more than this.  I am a D cup but I still only adjusted 5/8".
   Once this was adjusted (and taped...)  I moved the front center piece down 1 1/2 inches.  

All these pieces were taped down. (I'm just using parchment paper here, no fancy pattern cutting paper.)  Next, I used a french curve to redraw the arm curve.

And extended the side seam from the new position to the hem.

(sorry, no pic)... I also curved the bottom from the side to the center front.
Then I used this new pattern piece to cut the front.  That extra length in the front and the new line at the arm both caused a small problem later!

MaryKay is slowly trying to dig herself out from under a mountain if fabric, one tutorial at a time.

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