MaryKay is slowly trying to dig herself out from under a mountain if fabric, one tutorial at a time. A self-procalimed "fabric-hoarding, fourth grade teaching mom" shows you how to make her projects and sew along tutorials. I dabble in all crafts, but particularly sewing (garments and home decorating), quilting, machine embroidery, and hand embroidery.
Thursday, July 17, 2014
New Look 6977 View A Raglan sleeve top
After a little searching through my stash, I decided to start my back-to-school mini wardrobe with a top from my stash. Although I haven't tried this pattern yet, I read lots of reviews on Pattern Review. Most of them indicate they wished they had chosen a smaller size, or to go by the finished garment size... rather than the measurement guide. With that in mind, I'm going to cut a size 8 with a bust adjustment, rather than the 10. Here's my mock up of the top with the fabric I have:
Pretty sure there might have been some "shopping juice" involved in this purchase! However, the colors match the grey and black I have for pants and a skirt... so I'm going for it anyway.
Step one: Laying out the pattern and doing a full-bust adjustment. Piece 1 is the front, which is cut on the fold and does not have a dart. So, where to start the fba? I learned something! It turns out on some patterns, this line is marked on the pattern.
To find the other line, make a horizontal line 1/2 way between the arm scythe notch and the shoulder seam. (In this case, there was no shoulder seam due to raglan sleeves. I went ahead and split the difference between the notch and the top of the front piece.) You can just see where I made a small mark at the 2 inch mark.
I then drew a horizontal line at this mark. Using the fold line to make sure it was square.
Then, I drew another horizontal line at the bust marking.
Next, I drew a vertical (grainline) line from about where my bust point would be to the hem line. (How did I know?? I measured my bust spread from my center front, and used this to find a close approximation.)
Now I cut, kind of like with a regular FBA, but no tilting.
Notice that the piece with the neckline is still attached at the first horizontal line. In order to allow for more bust wiggle room, I first scooted the arm scythe piece out 5/8". I have heard not to adjust more than this. I am a D cup but I still only adjusted 5/8".
Once this was adjusted (and taped...) I moved the front center piece down 1 1/2 inches.
All these pieces were taped down. (I'm just using parchment paper here, no fancy pattern cutting paper.) Next, I used a french curve to redraw the arm curve.
And extended the side seam from the new position to the hem.
(sorry, no pic)... I also curved the bottom from the side to the center front.
Then I used this new pattern piece to cut the front. That extra length in the front and the new line at the arm both caused a small problem later!
MaryKay is slowly trying to dig herself out from under a mountain if fabric, one tutorial at a time.